TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR GREATLANDER "TOP HATCH" CABINET INCUBATORS & HATCHERS

Below is the step-by-step guide to identifying problems that may arise. Consult this guide BEFORE contacting us for personal one-on-one assistance.
And if you must contact us for help, please do so by email. Phone calls are seldom useful, because they often involve following a list of steps, and these are best printed and read as you proceed.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE – GREATLANDER TOP HATCH CABINET MACHINES

Temperature too Low

The ambient is draughty/cold

 

 

One heater is not working

 

 

Move to a less draughty position

OR Fit stronger heater elements

 

Swap Heat 1 and Heat 2 around

Swap wire pair 21&22 with pair 23&24

Is the other heater now cold?

Fit a new controller

Is the same heater still cold?

Check its wiring connections

(If one relay has fatigued/failed, run both heaters from the good relay until the controller is replaced)

Temperature too High

Cool not switched on/working

 

 

Vents are closed

 

Rear fan is not working

 

 

External  Airflow is poor

 

 

Start Cool. Read instructions for how

Change blocked nozzle

 

Open vents

 

Does the rear fan work when the LED labelled FAN is illuminated

 

Create breezeway.

Provide 300mm clearance from back and sides

Humidity too Low in the Setting Chamber

Main Fan is not working - FAN

 

The start Capacitor has failed

 

 

Ultrasonic puck is not working

 

 

 

 

Losses to ambient

 

 

Transformer output not 24VDC

 

Transformer wrong power

Switch `Fans’ on. Replace Main Fan

 

Will the fan run on after a push start

Replace the start capacitor

 

Check/change the water level

Clean fouling of puck with weak CLR

Change puck

Treat water

 

Close vents

Fit rear flap curtain (not in All-Hatchers)

 

Check voltage output

 

1Amp for 1 puck; 2Amps for 2 pucks

Humidity too Low in the Hatching Chamber

Backpressure prevents good airflow over the bottom water tray

 

 

Insufficient surface area

 

Dry hatchlings still

Push the bottom water tray back to beneath a fan.

Open the bottom vent enough to promote good airflow over the water surface.

Add a second water tray beneath the other fan

Place a rolled up wet towel in the hatching basket to the rear beneath the

fans

Humidity too high

 

 

 

The WET LED is off but there is power to the Wet switches

 

The Wet relay is not releasing, Change the controller. If mid batch, switch off

Pulse & Cool and run with passive humidity until the controller is replaced

Safety breaker trips

 

Moisture

Unplug and switch everything Off

Plug back in and flip On the Main Switch

Does the Controller come on and hold?

Switch the other components one at a time to find the wet short (Fans, Lights, UV lamp, make a manual turn, program the rear fan to come on)

Use a dewatering fluid E.g. RP7, CRC, etc

 

Does the main switch straight away trip the safety breaker? Spray dewatering fluid on its back and inside it.

Change the main switch

(If competent, overbridge the main switch to affirm that it is the fault).

Safety breaker trips

 

Moisture. Is the wet component the bottom fan directly beneath the top water tray

When replacing the ultrasonic puck, secure its wire to the edge of the water tray with the provided cable ties.

If left to loop down, condensation will drip into the fan.

Turning stopped

 

 

Turning stopped in one position/direction

 

Faulty motor or limit switch

 

 

 

Faulty limit switch

Free the rack by undoing one end.

Make a short manual turn in both directions and listen if the motor works both up and down.

Make a short manual turn in both directions and trip the limit switch by hand. Does that stop the turns 

 

 

 

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