TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR GREATLANDER "TOP HATCH" CABINET INCUBATORS & HATCHERS
Below is the step-by-step guide to identifying problems that may arise. Consult this guide BEFORE contacting us for personal one-on-one assistance.
And if you must contact us for help, please do so by email. Phone calls are seldom useful, because they often involve following a list of steps, and these are best printed and read as you proceed.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE – GREATLANDER TOP HATCH CABINET MACHINES
Temperature too Low |
The ambient is draughty/cold
One heater is not working
|
Move to a less draughty position OR Fit stronger heater elements
Swap Heat 1 and Heat 2 around Swap wire pair 21&22 with pair 23&24 Is the other heater now cold? Fit a new controller Is the same heater still cold? Check its wiring connections (If one relay has fatigued/failed, run both heaters from the good relay until the controller is replaced) |
Temperature too High |
Cool not switched on/working
Vents are closed
Rear fan is not working
External Airflow is poor
|
Start Cool. Read instructions for how Change blocked nozzle
Open vents
Does the rear fan work when the LED labelled FAN is illuminated
Create breezeway. Provide 300mm clearance from back and sides |
Humidity too Low in the Setting Chamber |
Main Fan is not working - FAN
The start Capacitor has failed
Ultrasonic puck is not working
Losses to ambient
Transformer output not 24VDC
Transformer wrong power |
Switch `Fans’ on. Replace Main Fan
Will the fan run on after a push start Replace the start capacitor
Check/change the water level Clean fouling of puck with weak CLR Change puck Treat water
Close vents Fit rear flap curtain (not in All-Hatchers)
Check voltage output
1Amp for 1 puck; 2Amps for 2 pucks |
Humidity too Low in the Hatching Chamber |
Backpressure prevents good airflow over the bottom water tray
Insufficient surface area
Dry hatchlings still |
Push the bottom water tray back to beneath a fan. Open the bottom vent enough to promote good airflow over the water surface. Add a second water tray beneath the other fan Place a rolled up wet towel in the hatching basket to the rear beneath the fans |
Humidity too high
|
The WET LED is off but there is power to the Wet switches
|
The Wet relay is not releasing, Change the controller. If mid batch, switch off Pulse & Cool and run with passive humidity until the controller is replaced |
Safety breaker trips
|
Moisture |
Unplug and switch everything Off Plug back in and flip On the Main Switch Does the Controller come on and hold? Switch the other components one at a time to find the wet short (Fans, Lights, UV lamp, make a manual turn, program the rear fan to come on) Use a dewatering fluid E.g. RP7, CRC, etc
Does the main switch straight away trip the safety breaker? Spray dewatering fluid on its back and inside it. Change the main switch (If competent, overbridge the main switch to affirm that it is the fault). |
Safety breaker trips
|
Moisture. Is the wet component the bottom fan directly beneath the top water tray |
When replacing the ultrasonic puck, secure its wire to the edge of the water tray with the provided cable ties. If left to loop down, condensation will drip into the fan. |
Turning stopped
Turning stopped in one position/direction
|
Faulty motor or limit switch
Faulty limit switch |
Free the rack by undoing one end. Make a short manual turn in both directions and listen if the motor works both up and down. Make a short manual turn in both directions and trip the limit switch by hand. Does that stop the turns |